GHOSTS OF SPAIN

Spaniards are reputed to be amongst Europe's most voluble people. So why have they kept silent about the terrors of the Spanish Civi l War and the rule of dictator Generalísimo Francisco Franco? The appearance, sixty years after that war ended, of mass graves conta ining victims of Franco's death squads has finally broken what Spaniards call 'the pact of forgetting'. As these graves were dug up, Giles Tremlett embarked on a journey around Spain - and through Spanish history.